Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter, is the largest sand sea in the world stretching across parts of Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Oman and the United Arab Emirates. Our destination in the Empty Quarter was a desert resort, Qasr Al Sarab, a secluded oasis two and a half hours south of Abu Dhabi and twenty miles north of Saudi Arabia border via camel. The drive from Abu Dhabi was easy on well maintained lightly trafficed highways surrounded by acres and acres of sand. It was easy to understand the concept of a sand sea – the desert dunes were beautifully sculpted with undulating ridges and mounds, occassionally interspersed with small patches of hearty shrubs. The day was sunny, still and hot; the car’s thermometer registered a searing 107 F outside temperature. No wind at all today; we’d been cautioned about sand storms and could see evidence of the wind’s prior handiwork in the sculpted dunes and stretches of sandy patches alongside the roadway.
We followed the turnoff for Qasr Al Sarab but continued driving for another twenty miles through desolate landscape until we reached a tall arch that led us to the resort. Like a mirage, the brown scalloped towers of the hotel, flanked by palm trees and flowers appeared before us. We parked, checked in and were taken to our pool villa via golf cart.
Our villa was spectacular – large and spacious with a bedroom, sitting room, small kitchenette and alcove with table and chairs. Outside was a covered patio, lounge chairs and a plunge pool. It was private and very quiet. We were pleasantly surprised to learn the resort was only 10% full, so no trouble booking activities, no need for dinner reservations, spoiled with early housekeeping services and attentive waitstaff. Not many people want to visit the desert when daily afternoon temperatures average 110 F!
We definitely organized our days around the heat, scheduling activities like hiking, camel riding and falconing either before or after sunrise. Late mornings and afternoons found us lounging or swimming at the resort pool, fortunately covered with a large canopy to shield the sun. With a swim up bar, we did not even have to leave the water for a drink or snack!
We made it a point to walk the half mile from our villa to and from the pool each day for exercise. We followed a concrete path along the edge of a golden dune. In the mornings, we often walked through drifts of fine sand on the walkway, remnants of occassional sandstorms that plague the area when gusting winds blow loose sand from the dunes. Although desolate, the desert has a unique beauty – endless sand, undulating dunes, golden hues against a bright blue sky.
Our first night at Qasr Al Sarab, we scheduled a guided night walk. After watching a magnificant sunset over the dunes, we boarded a Land Rover for a thrilling fifteen minute ride to our hiking spot. Driving on sand, particularly on dunes of sand, is a real art. The key is to maintain momentum so as not to slip backwards or get stuck so going uphill means going fast while continually downshifting. Our guide, Ahmed, was skilled and drove fast, so in addition to a few sideways slides, we were airborne a few times.
It was completely dark by the time we left the Land Rover and began to hike. We had flashlights but soon found it easier for our eyes to adjust to the dark. Walking uphill on the sand was challenging – the sand often changed consistency, sometimes it was crusty enough to walk on top, sometimes we sank into pockets and found ourselves knee deep. Along the way, we looked for signs of wildlife, eventually catching some movement and spotting a small herd of desert gazelle. Ahmed pointed out spider and scorpion tracks and eventually we glimpled a lone scorpion. Reaching the top of the dune, we had a magnificant view of the starry night sky. There was a faint glow of lights from a town just over the Saudi border; otherwise we had perfect dark sky conditions.
Descending the dune, we learned that the sand sings. As we walk- slid down the dune, our feet created mini avalanches and these sliding grains of sand produced vibrations equal to the resonance frequency of the dune. We heard this as a deep, groaning hum. Temperature and humidity conditions need to be just right for this natural concert to occur but the Empty Quarter met these criteria. We were fascinated by this and admit that we spent a good part of the rest of the hike making sand music!
The last time I was in the UAE, a client gifted me a desert rose. I mention this to Ahmed and he offered to help us hunt for some so he drove us to a patch of desert that had once been a salt flat. Flashlights in hand, we trekked across a flat crusty patch of sand and Ahmed showed us where to look. Desert roses are actually mineral formations of gypsum that are created through a combination of pressure and the shaping forces of wind and water. Usually found in shallow salt basins, they come to the surface as a rosette with flattened petals taking on the color of sand that is trapped in the gypsum as it crystalizes. I was thrilled to find several intricately shaped roses! After carefully dusting the lose sand off at the villa, I carefully wrapped several of the best ones in paper towel and stowed them in my suitcase to take home.
The next evening was our sunset camel ride. Again we took a short, albeit fast jeep ride through the sand to a meeting point where our camel driver waited, camels saddled and muzzled, ready to be mounted. In turn each camel, tipped forward on its knees then folded its back legs into a seated position allowing us to scramble on its back. Once seated, we began our trek over the dunes.
As we rode, we could feel heat radiating up from the desert sand but once the sun began to dip towards the horizon, the air became noticeably cooler. The landscape was stunning; the setting sunlight turned the sand flame red, accenting its ripples and ridges. Clusters of hearty abal bushes with their wispy branches dotted the dunes. Desolation never looked so beautiful.
Eventually, we topped a large dune and spied hotel staff and other guests gathered around a small table with an assortment of drinks and snacks. This was our sundowner spot. Our camels knew the drill and with no prompting sat down so we could dismount.
With drink in hand, we watched as the shiny yellow orb dipped towards the edge of the dunes, tinging the sky yellow, orange and pink. For my camel, this was just another glorious sunset and he never turned his head – I think he was hoping I would share my snack with him!
We watched as the sun dipped behind the dunes, darkening the sand like the night, the sky turning a brilliant pink for the grand finale. Immediately, the air cooled and we went from warm to chilly almost instantaneously. The ride back to the resort on camel back in the twilight was lovely. Nearing the resort, we spotted a few gazelles darting out of the abal bushes, like us, enjoying the coolness of the evening.
The next morning we were up before dawn. Today we would not only witness but participate in one of the UAE’s most treasured cultural traditions, falconry. Ahmed once again drove us into the desert, this time to a manmade oasis complete with couches, rugs and tables, our own little family room in the desert. Coffee, tea, juice and pasties were laid out on the table and we were invited to make ourselves comfortable as the falconers readied the birds.
In front of us, perched on and tethered to low pedestals in the sand were three birds of prey – a black hawk, a white gyrfalcon and an owl. The hawk and the falcon were hooded. Ahmed explained that the trainer blindfolds a bird when at rest and then uncovers its eyes when ready to interact with it; in this way, the trainer controls the bird and conditions it to obey its commands. Additionally since falcons and hawks have excellent eyesight, the hood calms them and minimizes distractions.
The owl was not hooded. Owls are not trained in the same way falcons and hawks are nor are they as easily distractable. This owl was a desert eagle owl, a common species found in the Arabian peninsula. Noctural with exceptional eyesight for hunting prey, it has large black glassy eyes, the better to watch us with, and striking tawny plummage speckled with black and white markings.
Falconry has been part of desert life for over 4000 years. For the Bedouin of the resource-scarce Arabian Peninsula, well trained falcons were once key to their survival. These birds of prey hunted large migratory birds that were an important part of the Bedouin diet. Today, falconry is no longer practiced for hunting but is a national sport revered for the skill of the trainer and the speed and agility of the birds.
The birds of prey demonstration was about to begin. We settled in on the couch as the trainers donned leather guantlets covering their hands, wrists and forearms not only to avoid claw punctures but to give the bird a perch to fly and land from. The hawk, up first, was unhooded and unteethered, then hopped on to the falconer’s gauntlet. Another trainer began swinging a cord attached to a leather lure with feathers, round and round, up and down like a lasso. This simulates prey and upon a signal from the falconer, the bird launched itself from its perch, ascended, circled and executed a fast dive to snatch the lure. With the lure in its beak, the hawk flew back to the trainer’s gauntlet and was rewarded with a piece of raw meat. The food intake of these birds is limited so raw meat is a powerful incentive for birds to come back to the trainer.
Next up was the owl. Owls do not dive in the same way the hawks and falcons do; our desert owl’s acrobatics were not as elaborate as the hawk’s, but nonetheless it caught the lure and enjoyed its snack. Finally, the star of the show, the falcon was up. The falcon in our show was a bright white with brown wingtips and black markings, a gryfalcon. The trainers readied the bird, who once unhooded and untethered, fanned its wings showing us the beautiful design on its feathers.
In Arabic, falcons are referred to as ‘Hur’ or free birds. Once untethered, the falcon, savoring its freedom, rocketed skyward, soared gracefully, then executed a perfect dive capturing the lure. It performed this feat several times with grace, speed and agility demonstrating its hunting skill. It’s no wonder the falcon (not the gyr but the Saker) is the national bird of the Emirates. After each successful dive, the falcon returned to the trainer’s guantlet to receive its reward of raw meat.
After the falconers completed the demonstation, it was our turn to interact with the birds. We took turns donning leather guantlets, then one of the falconers settled a bird on our wrist. The other trainer stood roughly 75 feet away and we each had a chance to ‘fling’ our wrist to launch the bird who flew to the falconer, landed and then flew back to land on our gauntlet. The trainers then had us stand either singly or in pairs with our arms opened wide and the birds took turns flying through. It was impressive to witness the agility and grace of these birds of prey!
Shortly after the falconry demo, another trainer approached with two leashed long-legged, thin bodied, dogs. These were Arabian Salukis, a breed of dog domesticated by desert dwellers in the Arabian penninsula over 5000 years ago. Like falcons, Saluikis played a crucial role in the survival of ancient Bedouins. The speed and stamina of Salukis make them excellent hunting dogs. Trained as pups to work together with falcons, the dogs can retrieve prey hidden in brush or tall grasses wounded by a falcon or can chase down prey sighted from the air by the bird.
Salukis are fast, reaching speeds of almost 45 mph. To demonstrate their speed, a trainer walked the dogs several hundred yards into the desert, while another trainer launched a mechanical lure. Once unleashed, the Salukis, sprinted after the lure, catching it immediately. Salukis are technically not the fastest animal in the world but given their prolonged stamina and endurance are well suited to outlast the faster desert gazelle.
Barely panting after a few demonstration runs, we were able to pet the Salukis. Somewhat aloof, the two dogs, stood quietly and patiently letting us rub their short coats. Super thin, the dogs looked malnourished; the trainer assured us that these were well-fed healthy three year olds but just like greyhounds, nature designed this slim, leggy breed for speed and agility.
We were ready to leave our desert oasis. As the sun rose in the sky, so did the temperatures; at 7am it was already approaching 90 deg. Walking towards the jeeb, I could not help but appreciate the beauty of the sand beneath our feet. A beautiful mix of red and brown, this sand likely acquired its hue from iron oxides. Reddish sands in this part of the Empty Quarter may have traveled through wadis, streams that flow during the rainy season, picking up iron oxide as the sand moved from higher ground to lower lying basins.
On the way back to the resort, Ahmed made a detour to the center where the resort’s animals reside. We visited two ‘royal’ Saluki pups descended from stock from UAE royal family. The pedigree of the Saluki breed is a point of pride for Emiratis and much attention is paid to the purity and quality of the ancenstoral lineage of their dogs. Unlike the dogs in the demo that were smooth haired, these pups were feathered, sporting long fluffly hair on their ears, tails and behind their legs.
There were several sleek Arabian horses stabled in the adjacent barn. This clear eyed beauty approached and allowed us to gently rub her nose. Ahmed found us an apple to reward her for her attention.
Both on our night hike and returning from our camel ride, we’d spotted small herds of gazelle off in the distance. It was either too dark or the herd was too far away to get a crisp photo. As we drove back from the falcon and saluki demonstration we spotted a lone gazelle sprinting across the sand. This elegant animal, active in the mornings and evenings, is well suited for desert life; it swallows its food unchewed allowing it to consume large quantities of tough desert plant material. When resting, it chews its cud and extracts moisture from the plants it has swallowed, reducing the need to actually drink water. Even more extraordinary, the desert gazelle has evolved the ability to shrink its oxygen demanding organs like heart and liver during times of intense drought, breathing less and reducing the amount of water lost from its body from respiration.
By our last morning in the desert, we were ready to try sand boarding. Once again, rising early to avoid the heat, we collected boards from the resort’s activity center. The woman behind the counter also handed us a piece of wax, demonstrating how to apply it to the bottom of the board to reduce friction. We began the arduous hike up the tall dunes behind the resort. At 6:30am the sand was already warm from the sun. My husband opted to pass on boarding down the dune, grabbed my camera and positioned himself at the bottom as the official photographer. Little did he know the action shots he would get!
I decided to go first. For some reason, I expected the sand to be viscous, so concerned that I would get stuck on my way down the dune, I waxed every square inch of the bottom of my board. Sitting on my board and tucking my feet up, I scooched myself off the edge of the steep zone and immediately realized my mistake. The sand was as slippery as ice and I was flying out of control picking up speed as I careened down the hill. A bump, a bounce and I was airborne, off the board tumbling wildly, creating my own personal sandstorm. When I finally came to a stop, I had sand in every nook, cranny and orifice of my body and an injured left wrist. Suffice it to say the walk back to the resort was not fun and a quick check from the nurse on staff plus the pain when I tried to rotate the wrist convinced me that a stop at the hospital on our way to Dubai was in order. We gathered our things, checked out and headed towards Abu Dhabi and the nearest American hospital, which happened to be the Cleveland Clinic. Thus started my sojourn with medical tourism in the UAE!
Turns out I’d fractured my wrist in three places. Must say between the stop at the Cleveland Clinic in Abu Dhabi which was not an orthopedic center and the American Hospital of Dubai which was, I got fast, excellent treatment. Besides feeling like I was a patient in a palace (the infrastructure of these hospitals in amazing) with an international care team (clinicians were from all over the word with never an Emirati to be found), I had several sets of Xrays, two temporary casts and sling, pain meds, consults with emergency room doc and an orthopedist and a disc of my medical records to bring home to my local orthopedist all for less than $1000 (which I paid for out of pocket since American insurance does not cover overseas treatment). Much to my delight, several months after returning home, I got an email from the Abu Dhabi Cleveland Clinic apologizing for inadvertantly overcharging me and a refund of $250 credited to my charge card. Lesson learned – if you have to be hurt, being in the UAE is not a bad place to be!