Today our plan was to hike one of the iconic trails of Grand Teton National Park -South Jenny Lake to Inspiration Point. A moderate 5.6 mile in and out hike, we weren’t sure how complicated the trail would be with a foot of snow. One benefit of the snow – this trail, normally one of the most traficked in the park, was unlikely to be crowded. We drove to the South Loop trailhead, donned our packs and began hiking the snowy trail. The day was overcast and grey with temperatures below freezing so we were able to walk atop the thick crusted snow without breaking through. The trail hugged the shoreline of Jenny Lake and despite the overcast, reflections of the surrounding hills shimmered on the lake’s still surface. Jenny Lake is just over two miles long and a mile wide, so we nearly traversed the entire west side of the lake before leaving the shoreline.
As we hiked, the overcast occassionally lifted, treating us to a magnificant glimpse of the snow covered Teton range juxtaposed against patches of brilliant blue sky.
The trail continued straight past the north end of Jenny Lake and began to gently gain elevation. As we climbed, we looked out over this glacially carved lake, its calm surface reflecting the heavy cloud cover in the sky above. The second largest lake in Grand Teton National Park, Jenny was named for a Shoshonee Indian woman who assisted an 1872 geological survey team with camp logisitics. Married to a local trapper, legend has it that Jenny contracted smallpox from the white men she assisted, killing her and her six children who had no immunity.
The trail crossed Cascade Canyon Creek, eventually branching to a side pathway leading to Hidden Falls. This trail was steep and icy, but fortunately short (less than a quarter mile) and we were rewarded with a magnificant view of Hiddlen Falls. Not quite frozen, the rushing water dropped about 100 ft down a series of steps. As we admired the falls, we met the first hikers we’d seen thus far on the trail and marvele how lucky we were to have this trail mostly to ourselves. Thank you snow!
After savoring the beauty and solitude of the falls, we slid down to the main trail and headed towards Inspiration Point. The trail wound and climbed its way along the canyon cliff face, occassionally giving us glimpses of the Tetons snow dusted peaks.
The trail paralleled Cascade Creek, now only a thin ribbon of flowing water, sandwiched between its frozen banks.
About a half mile from Inspirtation Point, the trail became a narrow ledge that hugged the canyon wall with a several hundred foot drop to our right. Walking very carefully, we literally followed in the footsteps of the brave hikers who’d broken trail before us, hoping there were no tripping hazards masked by the snow.
Because we were looking down on the ledge watching our footing, it was not until we reached Inspiration Point, shed our packs and safely situated ourself atop some boulders, that we could gaze up and out to appreciate the view. From our lofty perch, we looked down on the pale blue lake framed by the Gros Vente Range, mirroring the mountains and clouds on its placid surface. Inspiration Point was the ideal place for a picnic and we spread our feast of fruit, cheese, crackers and nuts on napkins. We uncapped a bottle or beer and Prosecco – I wasn’t sure given the climb down the cliff face that we should imbibe, but the warmth of the sun and the joy of being on a mountaintop with an awe inspiring view before us, was too special not to celebrate. So we toasted the beauty of nature and feasted, savoring the moment.
We descended carefully but quickly. By the time we reached the shores of Jenny Lake, the clouds had cleared, and the sun’s rays had morphed the icy trail to slush and mud. We shed a few layers in the warmth of the afternoon, reaching the car energized and inspired by this amazing hike that we’d had all to ourselves.
Wanting on last look at Jenny Lake now that the day was clear, we drove to the scenic overlook a bit unsure how our compact rental car would handle the gravel snow rutted road. Fortunately, we did not meet any oncoming traffic – it seems we always get stuck when one tire leaves the rut to allow another car to pass. Much to our delight, the overlook parking lot was completely plowed with only one other vehicle parked. Amazing that we had the overlook almost entirely to ourselves as reviews advised visitors to arrive before 10am to avoid traffic jams. We relished the peace and silence – once again the rocky Tetons reflected in the still surface of the lake was jawdropping beautiful.
Heading back toward the park entrance, we stopped to see the Cunningham Cabin, now officially on the National Register of Historic Places. This cabin is one of the last remnants of homesteading that occurred in the late 1880s prior to the protection of the land as a national park.
John and Margaret Cunningham built the cabin as a temporary residence as they developed and operated the Bar Flying U Ranch. Initially the Cunninghams prospered by raising cattle and farming but by the 1920’s a combination of drought and falling agricultural prices deteriorated the ranch’s profitability.
Originally opposed to conservation, the Cunninghams and their fellow ranchers realized that this land would be more profitable for recreation than farrming or ranching, so teamed up to file a petition for the government to purchase their land. In 1928, the Cunninghams sold their land to the Snake River Land Company, owned by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who in turn donated 35,000 acres to augment land the Congress had set aside to conserve the Teton Range and surrounding lakes.
In 1943, FDR added additional land in the valley to park footprint and in 1949, Rockfeller donated more land creating the John D Rockefeller highway that traverses the park today. Grand Teton Park, as we know it today, was formally established in 1950 becoming a well loved, oft visited, iconic national park.
We made one last stop as we exited the park – the Snake River overlook, its view made famous by legendary landscape photographer, Andel Adams. We parked the car, climbed a few steps and walked along the concrete pathway gazing down at the winding Snake River set against the majestic peaks of the Teton Range. The Snake headwaters begin just outside Yellowstone Park, cutting a deep canyon through Grand Teton National Park, continuing on through Idaho eventually flowing into the Columbia River in Washington state.
Exhilirated and exhausted, we stopped for dinner at Cutty’s Barn and Grille, a local pub with good pizza. Too lazy to find more firewood at our Fireside cabin, we opted to stay indoors and watch a movie. Tomorrow, we head back to Idaho Falls – so the morning is our last chance to spot a moose!