The historical fiction novel, America’s First Daughter, opens with seven-year-old Patsy Jefferson’s recollection of her family’s hurried departure from Monticello across the mountains to Poplar Forest, a small plantation her father had inherited from her maternal grandfather. Her father, who was Governor of Virginia at the time and a vocal separatist, had been warned that British soldiers planned to capture him. The family sheltered in the overseer’s cabin until it was safe to return to Monticello. Decades later, Thomas Jefferson designed and built a villa on the property, a sanctuary where he could spend time with his family out of the public eye. A fan of the novel, I was eager to see this private retreat of Jefferson’s, so we headed east from Roanoke into the Blue Ridge for the 50-mile drive to Poplar Forest.
The plantation Jefferson inherited from his wife’s father had over hundred enslaved men, women and children who cultivated tobacco and wheat, raised livestock and tended the 4000-acre property. Jefferson would occasionally visit the plantation, making the three-day journey by cart or horseback from Monticello. A self-taught architect, he began to envision a home at Poplar Forest that was aesthetic, yet simple, surrounded by natural beauty; a place of relaxation and respite from public scrutiny. In 1806 while he was President, Jefferson designed the main house giving it a unique octagonal floorplan, believed to be the first building of this shape constructed in the US.
By the time the house was completed in 1816, Jefferson had begun to retreat more and more from public life. He frequently spent weeks at Poplar Forest accompanied by his granddaughters. Together they enjoyed pleasant days filled with interesting conversations, long walks through the poplars and brisk horse rides across the meadow. Jefferson was an avid reader; he and his granddaughters often sat together in the parlor each quietly engrossed in their own books, occasionally sharing interesting tidbits they’d read with each other.
JJefferson was a prolific correspondent; one biographer estimates he wrote over 19,000 letters in his lifetime.
Not surprising given his prolific writing, Jefferson acquired a letter copying device in 1804 invented by the Englishman, John Isaac Hawkins. Called a polygraph, the device worked by having the writer’s hand move one pen while a second pen mirrored its movements. The result was a copy very much like the handwritten original. Jefferson called the polygraph “the finest invention of the present age” and had one brought to Poplar Forest.
Poplar forest was so named because of the preponderance of poplar trees on the property. Despite its name, several majestic black walnut trees prominently grace the house’s front yard.
As black walnut trees fruit, they grow baseball sized green pods that house the developing nuts. As these pods ripen, they fall from the trees’ branches. The front yard was littered with pods. We carefully picked our way through the blanket of ankle turning pods that covered the ground, dodging the occasional pod that dropped from above.
After touring the house and grounds, we made what we thought would be a quick detour to browse the gift shop. Somehow while making casual conversation with the docent minding the shop, we learned that he was raised as a Seventh Day Adventist. He shared a story about his father, who like the soldier in the movie Hacksaw Ridge, enlisted but refused to carry a weapon. So in addition to Jeffersonian history, we learned something about WW2.
Leaving Poplar Forest, we drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway, stopping at multiple scenic overlooks. The sun was brilliant and visibility was good; the views of the valley against the backdrop of the blue tinged mountains were spectacular.
The Parkway was constructed in 1936 along the spine of the Blue Ridge, a mountain chain in the Appalachians. It has the distinction of being America’s longest linear park, linking the Shenandoah Valley to Great Smokey Mountain National Park, and running for 469 miles through some of the most beautiful country in Virginia and North Carolina. With overlooks every 5-10 miles, there was plenty of opportunity to savor panoramic views. We even stopped at one turnout and walked a short distance along a piece of the infamous Appalachian Trail!
A favorite stop as we headed west was the Peaks of Otter Overlook. Comprised of three mountains, Sharp Top (3875 feet), Flat Top (4004 feet) and Harkening Hill (3375 feet), these peaks overlook the town of Bedford near the headwaters of the Otter River.
As we continued west, the altitude dropped. Our final stop, Taylor Mountain Overlook was only 2300 feet, a good 1000 feet lower than prior overlooks. We exited the Parkway near Roanoke and continued west towards Knoxville, stopping at a Mexican restaurant for flautas, quesadillas and too many baskets of chips and salsa. We’d planned to drive until dark, then find a hotel to spend the night. A storm was brewing out in front of us but still far enough away that despite frequent flashes of lightening illuminating the sky, we heard no thunder. It was a spectacular light show until we reached the edge of the storm and heavy rain began to fall. By this time, we were ready to stop for the night but had a difficult time finding a hotel vacancy. On our third try, we managed to book the last room at a Quality Inn in Dandridge, Tennessee.
The next day dawned clear and bright with no trace of the prior evening’s storm. The remaining couple hour drive to the Knoxville airport was uneventful. As we breakfasted together before separating to travel home, we pulled up Google maps on our phones and per tradition solidified our plan for next year – although a longer drive, get ready Raleigh, NC, we’re coming September, 2022!