Disappointed that we did not ride elephants to Amber Fort, we were looking for an opportunity to interact with these magnificant animals. We were delighted to discover that we could spend the afternoon at Dera Amer Farms, an ethical elephant sanctuary 45 minutes outside Jaipur.
We shuttled through the chaotic streets of Jaipur dodging motorcycles, pedicabs piled high with goods and an occasional wandering cow.
It was a relief to leave the city behind, although in India even the countryside has its own type of congestion – fewer pedicabs and cars but more trucks and animals, mostly camels and donkeys, some being led in the traffic lane by their owners, others pulling rickety wooden carts.
We eventually left the highway, traveling for what seemed an eternity on a rocky, rutted path through dry yellowed scrubland. The road split and a weathered wooden sign with the hand printed ‘Dera’ in English pointed to the left. After a few more lurches and rolls, we reached a small gravel parking lot where we were welcomed by a member of the Singh family, owners of the farm. Thirty years ago the family acquired 180 acres of neglected scrubland and returned it to its natural beauty, preserving it as both a human sanctuary for those wanting to escape the city and an animal sancturary for wild and domestic animals. Today, Dera provides a limited number of guests the opportunity to hike on the property and interact and help groom its two elephants and camel.
A turbaned staff member introduced us to Rangmala, a 39 year old Asian elephant adopted by the sanctuary from Jaipur 15 years prior. She stood still watching us, letting us touch and pet her but really came alive when her mahout (Hindi word that translates as elephant tender) brought out the pail and brushes for her bath.
Rangmala stood by contently as a guest vigorously scrubbed her trunk with a small brush. Likewise, she enjoyed having her feet wet, scrubbed and rinsed with water, splashing through the puddles after we finished.
Meanwhile, Laxmi, a 46 year old gentle giant, stood patiently watching her friend bathe, wrapping her trunk around a small tree, awaiting her turn. According to her mahout, Laxmi is more inclined to want a siesta rather than a scrub in the afternoon and as soon as we were finished, she settled down for a nap.
Although elephants are a common sight in Jaipur, used to transport tourists to Amber Fort and grooms at Indian weddings, we learned that these magnificant beasts are not indigineous to the state of Rajasthan. The dry desert conditions are very different from the lush jungles and forests they are accustomed to and consequently, they do not breed. Therefore all the elephants in Jaipur are captive, forced to ‘work’ in an environment that is hot and dry for long hours with people on their backs. I now understood why our outfitter opted to transport us by jeep to the fort. Dera Amer has adopted elephants to give them and their mahouts a more natural environment – Rangmala and Laxmi are free to wonder the preserve, are never chained or ridden (except by thier mahouts) and interact with guests on their own terms.
After the elephants’ baths, a caretaker proudly brought Lucky, a dromedary camel out to meet us, enjoying the attention we lavished on him and his charge. After we’d stroked and petted Lucky, he delightedly posed with prodigy for our pictures. Unlike elephants, dromedaries are well suited to the dry climate of Rajasthan and although not originally native to the state, were introduced by Arabian traders in the 8th century. Since then, they have become an essential beast of burden, able to navigate the state’s unforgiving terrain, and were designated as the Rajasthan state animal in 2014 in an effort to protect them.
After bathing the elephants and petting the camel, were invited to walk with Rangmala in the bush. It was very hot so instead we opted to watch her exercise while we lounged on a shaded veranda with a cool drink and a variety of horderves at hand. It was a pleasant way to spend a few hours in nature on a scorching afternoon, away from the ever present noise and chaos in the city.
All too soon it was time to head back to Jaipur. India was noticeably cleaner than what I’d seen in previous years but it was still a common site to see cows nosing through piles of garbage. At least, the garbage had been swept into piles.
The drive back to town was a great opportunity to observe the action on the streets without being immersed in it. From the van window, I noticed a back pack toting student with hair, face and clothes covered in colorful powder, grinning broadly.
School had just been dismissed for the day and we saw more and more students walking and riding scooters bathed in color. Our guide explained that tomorrow was Holi, the Festival of Colors, a popular Hindu religious holiday that celebrates the divine love between Radha, the goddess of love and motherhood and Lord Krishna. Since schools and many businesses would be closed tomorrow, students were starting festivities early with friends before leaving for the holiday break.
Holi is celebrated by Hindus around the world and marks the beginning of spring. People smear bright colors on friends and family, offer prayers, dance and sing and feast on traditional foods. As with holidays everywhere, enterprising entreprenuers find business opportunities. Vendors walked between stopped cars hawking colored powder, streamers and balloons.
Back at the hotel, we had our own festival of sorts, complete with fireworks, dancers, musicians and a sumptuous meal with a variety of northern Indian dishes.
We finished the night with a polo match, women vs men. Our mounts were camels; we rode shortgun with a ‘driver’ while we manuevered the longer and heavier than usual polo clubs to hit the ball. I was excited to grab a pass from a team mate and score a goal. After three rounds, the women won 2-3!
Our time in Jaipur was short with just a taste of the areas attractions. I was glad that this was my second visit. Tomorrow we leave for a short stay in Kathmandu, our tranfer point for Paro, Bhutan.
Mar, 2023