The terrain surrounding the Santiago peninsula is mountainous and begged for exploration, so we planned an afternoon ATV excursion into the mountains. Marteen drove us to an outfitter on the outskirts of Manzanillo. After donning helmets, goggles and kerchiefs, we had a brief orientation on how to operate the ATVs, and I mean brief, since our guide spoke little English and we spoke little Spanish. I had decided to drive my own vehicle vs. riding shotgun with my husband. I was somewhat nervous – the last time I’d driven an ATV, I’d had a mishap that resulted in a sprained wrist. I rationalized that then I was driving a double with my daughter on the back, the vehicle was heavy, and I was being pressured to drive on a twisting, sandy trail faster than I was comfortable. This time I would be driving a smaller, lighter single on wider mountain paths. Little did I realize this ride would be equally challenging!
We took off single file along the wide shoulder of the highway, speeding cars whizzing beside us, before turning right on a dirt lane bordering a small farm. Heading towards the mountains, we picked up a wide but bumpy track and almost immediately started to climb. The width was not an issue but there were large, deep moguls in the road that needed to be navigated carefully so as not to tip the ATV. Soon I was trailing far behind the vehicle in front of me, but gently reminded myself that I tend to get hurt when I give in to pressure to go faster than I feel comfortable. So I breathed deeply, relaxed and drove at my own pace. I reached the others at our first stop about halfway up the mountain. As I removed my dusty goggles, I realized I was shaking from gripping the handlebars of my vehicle so tightly. Taking a big gulp of water, I wiped my sweaty forehead and calmed my breathing as I focused on the magnificent view before me. Acres and acres of lush green vegetation with mountain peak after peak silhouetted against a deep blue sky with wisps of white clouds, lay before me!
All too soon break time was over. I could see the trail switching back and forth up the side of the mountain. Still littered with moguls, it narrowed as it approached the peak. Gulp, this was going to be harrowing! Everyone hopped on their vehicles and sped off. I, however, took my time, mentally reviewed the gears, deciding to err on the side of caution. I was ultra focused as I maneuvered the all terrain vehicle (why had I thought a single was light) around rocks and bumps not daring to take my eyes off the trail. It seemed like a lifetime as I toiled upward, never mustering the courage to move a hand from the handlebars to wipe the sweat from my eyes. When I finally reached the top and rejoined my group, I was exhausted. The view was exhilarating as we gazed down through wispy clouds on the Santiago Peninsula and its surrounding bays.
The town of Manzanillo lay scattered along the ocean’s edge; the ocean freighters anchored in the harbor appeared as small fuzzy rectangles. A light breeze cooled our sweating bodies. After a drink and a snack, I felt ready to tackle the downhill ride. Because I was cautious, alright because I was slow, the guide suggested I start down before the rest of the group, so I wheeled around and began the descent down the trail. What I did not notice on the harrowing ride up was that the path had forked and rather than continuing straight, I should have veered to the right. Before I knew it, I had dead ended at a rangers station along the ridge. Although I got another great view, it was difficult for me to turn the ATV around in such tight quarters.
After inching forward and backward multiple times, I eventually turned the vehicle 180 degrees and retraced my route. Much to my dismay, several cows lounged across my path – I tried shooing them to no avail. They stayed put and mooed! Eventually, the guide found me and quickly dispersed the beasts by driving straight at them. I hadn’t realized cows could move so quickly.
The guide had sent the others out ahead while he backtracked to find me – as our escort, he was anxious to catch up with the rest of his charges and began driving quickly, but once again, I was determined to take my time. The ride up had been difficult, but the ride down was even more challenging. Not just moguls on the twisting path, but now gravity was working to topple me. After what seemed like hours (but was really 45 mins), we reached the bottom of the mountain and the rest of the group. I was greeted by cheers and comments on my stellar driving and sense of direction. Needless to say, this was a source of teasing and joking for the rest of the week. I think the next time we plan an ATV excursion, I will ride shotgun!
The next day was Thanksgiving and for the first time in decades, I had no cooking and hosting obligations! To celebrate, we chartered a boat for a two hour sunset cruise around Santiago Bay. Marteen drove us to the nearby marina where we met our captain, Ken and first mate, Marco and boarded The Double Trouble, a 35 ft fishing boat with a long bow, small cabin, aft seats in the stern and a flying bridge.
A few of us immediately hopped on the caged bow, perfect for lounging (and picture taking); the rest of our group moved up to the flying bridge. With a drink in hand and camera ready, we left the marina and headed west into the bay.
It was a calm evening with a breeze so gentle it merely ruffled the water. That meant good sailing for a few in our party who were seasick prone. We paralleled the shore for a few miles, eventually passing the excellent beach restaurant we’d dined at the evening before.
Nearby was a sunken barge, its top visible at low tide. Covered in barnacles, the barge had capsized a decade ago during a rare fall hurricane. Pelicans perched on the remnants of the cargo box, resting between their bouts of diving.
As the sun dropped below the horizon, the sky flamed yellow and orange and red silhouetting the freighters anchored in the harbor. Sailing near one of these parked vessels gave us an appreciation for its massive size and scale!
The brilliant orange and red and yellow hues of the sky softened as the sun disappeared, illuminating and outlining the various layers of mountains on the horizon. There is no sight more glorious than that of the sun setting over the ocean against a backdrop of mountains!
With Nature’s light show in its final act, we headed back to the marina. The residual light from the sunken sun continued to illuminate the multiple layers of mountains on the horizon, coloring each tier a different shade of blue.
It was completely dark without a trace of moon by the time we reached port. Our capable captains navigated the narrow entrance to the marina with the assistance of buoy lights and smoothly docked us. It had been a magical evening. We thanked and toasted our skippers with a final beer and then met Marteen for a ride back to Villa Aves del Paraiso and the dinner that awaited us. Happy Thanksgiving!
