Friday, our last full day in Vermont, dawned overcast and drizzly but with the promise of clearer skies and sunshine later in the afternoon. We were ready to hike in the Green Mountains regardless of weather. Fortified with another inn breakfast of blueberry pancakes and scones, we packed our raincoats, filled our water bottles and headed to the Haystack Mountain trailhead near the neighboring town of Wilmington.
Haystack Mountain is an iconic peak of the Green Mountains of southern Vermont. At 3445 feet, it shares a ridgeline with neighboring Mt. Snow and as one of the higher peaks in the area, promised panoramic views from its summit if the clouds cooperated. We immediately plunged into thick forest as the trail ascended sharply. The path was rocky and muddy from yesterday’s rain. Ferns, open and vibrant with moisture lined the trail occasionally wetting our pant legs as we brushed past. It was hard to discern the weather; the forest canopy overhead was dense, obscuring the sky and trapping any errant sunbeams that might have shone down. We climbed steadily for almost two hours, until finally spotting a clearing ahead in the trees. Scrambling down into a small gully and up a few large boulders, we climbed onto a small rocky outcrop and stared out into a sea of mist. It was time for lunch so despite the lack of view, we settled down on a couple boulders and feasted on cheese and crackers, granola, apples and tepid water. Another twosome, a brother and sister duo who had come home to Vermont to shelter from COVID, and their dog joined us at the top. The summit was small and only able to comfortably accommodate a few visitors, so we were fortunate that the weather had deterred other hikers. As we talked and ate, the mist began to clear, a few rays of sunlight broke through the cloud cover and we saw the valley and Haystack Pond gradually emerge below.
With better visibility, we ventured through another patch of trees and onto a rocky ledge overlooking the valley. Through an opening in the pines, we could make out several small lakes below, their distinct shapes cutout from the trees; our fellow hikers informed us we were looking at Long Pond and Lake Willoughby. Small patches of blue sky emerged and the panorama before us sharpened and focused.
We made good time on the descent, being mindful of our footing on the slippery rocks. Stamping our feet to dislodge the chunks of mud from our boots, we emerged from forest into bright sunlight. The fog and rain had cleared! We were ready for more panoramic mountain views but hiking one summit was enough for the day so we drove to Mt. Snow to take the chair lift to the top. A popular ski resort in winter, the recreation area offers mountain biking and hiking other times of the year. We drove through empty parking lot after parking lot until we found the clock tower where we bought tickets for the Bluebird Express chair lift to the summit.
Mt. Snow’s 3586 foot summit is almost 300 feet higher than Haystack. Normally a 7 min ride in winter, the lift is slowed down in summer so riders can enjoy the view. Enjoy the view we did; the day had brightened, the sun was shining and puffy, cumulus clouds added depth to the stunning panorama before us. We bought a drink and snack at the concession at the top and savored the view of the Somerset Reservoir with its multiple fingers and estuaries, created by damming the Deerfield River.
Finished with our snack, we followed a short service road at the top, dead ending into a small meadow abloom with yellow wildflowers.
A speckled monarch butterfly, gracefully balanced atop a bloom, sucking its sweet nectar.
We’d originally planned to hike down Mt. Snow, but as the afternoon waned, opted to ride down on the Bluebird Express. After all, it’s not often that we can ride the chair lift down the mountain!
With sunshine, blue skies and white clouds, the view of the Green Mountains from the porch of our inn was equally impressive. Tired of the car, we walked into West Dover for dinner.
Our restaurant of choice was Tavern 1846, aptly named since the eatery was established in 1846 as the tavern for the stagecoach stop. Due to COVID, the restaurant only had outdoor seating but tables were set up on the lawn and porch so the wait was short. A guitarist crooned ballads from the 60s. We lingered over our dinners of shrimp and chicken enjoying Barry McGuire’s Eve of Destruction and Peter, Paul and Mary’s Leaving on a Jet Plane.
Sadly, it was time to leave on a jet plane. The next morning after breakfast, we packed up, preparing to make our way back to the Albany airport. However, I wanted to experience one last thing before leaving Vermont – a covered bridge. Vermont is home to more than 100 covered bridges and I was determined to not leave the state before seeing and driving across one of it most famous icons. There is something whimsical about covered bridges, although after learning about their history, these bridges are really very practical. Most bridges are red because like barns, they were painted with a mixture created from three common elements readily available in the 19th century community – skimmed milk, lime and rust (iron oxide). These ingredients were combined to form a red, paint like coating that was inexpensive, yet protected the wood and helped keep it warmer in winter. The cover or roof atop the bridge shielded the trusses and deck from weather so they would last longer.
There were three possible covered bridges to visit while enroute to the airport. For no particular reason, we chose the Silk Road Bridge in Bennington. A lattice truss structure built in 1840, the bridge spans the Walloomsac River and carries traffic over Silk Road. Intent on experiencing this piece of Vermont to its fullest, we walked across the bridge, around the bridge, along the banks of the river next to the bridge’s foundation before finally driving under its cover towards the airport and home!
