Forests of redwoods extend 450 miles down the north Pacific Coast but the oldest and tallest trees are found in a chain of national and state parks between Klamath and Rockport, California. Some of the trees in Redwood National and State Parks and Humbolt Redwoods State Park are so renowned that they have their own names and are tourist destinations in their own right! Our plan was to spend the next couple days hiking the trails in these parks to enjoy the natural wonders of the redwood ecosytem and to seek out these famous tall trees.
For me, hiking through the redwoods felt like stepping into an enchanted forest. Wandering amongst these towering giants, limbs fringed in moss, with the occassional beam of sunlight breaking through the canopy to the forest floor below, smelling the loamy fragrance of the moist earth and above all appreciating the stillness of the forest, was magical. But the trees themselves add to this mystical charm. Many of these venerable giants sport interesting and unusual ‘scars’ that make each tree unique; a testament to its resilence and ability to withstand the ravages of time.
We frequently hiked past redwoods with multiple trunks, stopping to marvel at the tangle of intertwined branches above our heads. Sometimes the second or even third bole curved and wove around the main trunk. We discovered that multiple trunks often grow from the same root system and that rather than abnormalities that harm the tree, these tangles enable the tree to compensate for damage or disease. These ‘scars’ are actually Mother Nature’s way of helping the tree survive; the curves, bends and tangles of the various trunks form a complex fabric that strengthens the structure of the tree, adding additional support so it can better survive and thrive despite its challenges.
One of the more fascinating and beautiful natural accommodations we observed during our miles of walking were the multi-colored knobs growing from the roots, trunks and branches of redwoods. Called burls, these bulbous growths of wood and bark give the tree an organic, Gaudi like appearance. Burls form when the tree undergoes stress or injury from disease, insect infestation or physical damage, scarring, yet strenghtening the tree. Burls vary in size, shape and color, adding a distrinctive beauty and flair to their hosts while at the same time increasing their resilience.
We were astounded to see hundred foot trees with large hollows in their trunks, still standing tall; of course, we had to pause our hike to walk or crawl through them. Holes are the most visible of redwood scars, typically caused by natural events such as fire, lightning strikes, or decay. Varying in size and shape, some small, some large, these cavaties rarely destabilize the tree.
More than just tunnels for hikers, these cavities provide habitats for birds, insects, and small mammals. They also contribute to the tree’s ecosystem by allowing moisture and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the trunk, supporting the growth of mosses, ferns, and other plants. This in turn benefits the tree. I couldn’t help but marvel at the adaptability and interconnectedness of nature.
Traveling the chain of redwood forests between parks frequently took us along the coast. Early morning drives were breathtaking as the fog began to lift, its wispy tendrils gently swaddling the black rocks along the coast, the moist air being absorbed by the surrounding redwoods.
One morning we stopped the car at a lookout near Vista Point to watch the fog clear over the water. Much to our delight a pod of harbor seals were beached across a stretch of sand pocketed between two high cliffs. It was still early. Only a few seals were awake and none were in the water. Like humans, they appeared to be in no hurry to start their day until the mist cleared and the sun appeared.
Hiking on the forest floor looking up to the boughs of the redwoods was amazing, but we also wanted to experience what it was like to be up in the canopy looking down. So we stopped at the Sequoia Park Zoo to hike its skywalk. The zoo was not much of a zoo with only a few scrawny rescue bears and birds but the park’s quarter mile walkway allowed us to get into the canopy of the surrounding trees. Looking down from 100 feet above the forest floor from the canopy of a redwood let us experience these magnificant trees from an entirely different perspective.
We began meeting the famous trees in earnest as we hiked through areas like the Avenue of the Giants, Rockefeller Loop and Founders Grove. We ambled along a trail searching for one famous tree, with a descriptive but unoriginal name, Tall Tree. At 359 feet high, with a 42 foot circumference, it is 20 ft shorter than the record holder, which incidentally is not accessible by trail.
In Founder’s Grove, we hiked to the infamous Dyerville Giant. Estimated to be over 1600 years old, this redwood was toppled like a domino during the March 1991 rainy season when another leaning tree fell into it. Taller than even Tall Tree, the Dyerville Giant was measured at 370 feet, comparable to a 30 story building, 52 feet in circumferance with an estimated weight over 1 million pounds. The upended root system for this huge giant is an almost 20 ft diameter tangled mass of large, permanent roots interconnected with many smaller feeder roots and root hairs. Unless consumed by fire, the Dyerville Giant will lie on the forest floor with its root system protruding into the air for hundreds of years, nurturing hundreds of plants and animals.
One of my favorite redwoods was actually outside the parks, located off highway 101 near a gift shop along the Avenue of the Giants. Appropriately named Grandfather Tree, this redwood is believed to be over 1800 years old. At 265 ft tall, it’s taller than Tall Tree but like a portly grandfather, it’s girth is a whopping 55 feet making it one of the five widest coastal redwoods in the world!
For our final two nights in northern California, we stayed at the historic Benbow Inn. Hotel Benbow, as it was originally called, was constructed in 1926 by the Benbow family as a destination for tourists motoring along the newly created Redwood Highway. Its seclusion and reputation for both luxury and hospitality made it an attractive accommodation for Hollywood stars and dignitaries. Spencer Tracy, Clark Gable, Joan Fontaine, Eleanor Roosevelt and Herbert Hoover were just a few of the VIPs that enjoyed the amenities of the inn. The Tudor style inn with its dark woodwork and plushly upholstered antique furniture has new owners today but is still managed in the tradition of an old country style inn. With complimentary creme sherry in our rooms and 3pm tea and fresh out of the oven blueberry scones served daily in the library, we felt like old school English aristocrats.
One of the amenities we enjoyed the most at Benbow Inn was use of the complimentary bikes. We pedaled though the Benbow State Recreation Area and with only a handfull of hearty campers this late in the season, we had the park mostly to ourselves. Redwoods were interspersed with other local species of trees. The solitude, the sunshine, the cool autumn temps and falling leaves made for a pleasant ride.
After two beautiful days in the Benbow Valley, we began the journey back to the San Francisco airport. Driving through wine country, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to stop at one of the area’s many wineries. Our flight was in the late afternoon, so we chose a winery soley for convenience stopping at Mazzocco Vineyards because it was on our route back. This proved to be an excellent choice!
This late October afternoon was a perfect time to sit on Mazzocco’s patio sampling its zinfandel, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The grape harvest was nearly complete, the foliage surrounding the vines was already turning a vibrant red and orange, yet the afternoon was warm and sunny. With only one other couple on the patio, we once again reveled in the beauty and solitude. Fortified by a few sips of wine complemented with cheese, crackers and olives, we reluctantly wandered back to the car to make our way to the airport.
This trip gave me a much needed respite from caregiving. I returned home inspired by the fortitude and resilence of the redwoods. Touched by their magic, I was ready to once again face the challenges of caring for my ailing father. I was thankful for the lesson the natural world taught me – I was able to accept that when my dad ultimately toppled, like a gentle giant, he would still ‘be there’ to sustain and nourish those who loved him for centuries to come.
October, 2023