Our basecamp for exploring the Tetons was the Fireside Resort, a 15 min drive on the outskirts of Jackson Hole, about 6 miles from Teton Village. We’d decided to stay here after reading reviews from people who awakened to moose foraging in the woods near their cabins. Another good omen as we approached – there were multiple signs dotting the highway warning motorists of moose crossings. Between the reviews, signs and woods surrounding the property, I figured we had a pretty good chance of getting up close and personal with a moose.
We reached Fireside at dusk, just on time to watch the sky redden and the light wrapped trees lining the drive, illuminate. Fireside was not so much a resort as a large RV campground with a ‘glamping option’ for those of us not trailering our own lodging. In fact, the long, narrow rectangular cabins resembled RVs and were well appointed with king sized bed, bath with walk in shower, kitchenette and living room with a 72 inch smart TV. No question we’d be warm and comfortable. After the long drive from Yellowstone, we took a short walk around the property to stretch our legs, ever on the look out for moose. No such luck tonight. Back at our RV like cabin, we snacked on cheese, crackers and fruit before turning in for the night.
Our plan for the next morning was to drive the length of Grand Teton National Park, stopping at various places for short hikes and ‘look sees’ to get a feel for the park. Grand Tetons is one seventh the acreage of Yellowstone, spread over 484 square miles, so much easier to traverse end to end. As we paralleled the Teton range on the inner park road, a thick veil of fog blanketed the tall peaks but gradually began to sink to the valley floor. The brilliant blue sky in the background forecast a cloudless, sunny day once the fog lifted.
We stopped briefly at the Craig Thomas Visitor Center near the south park entrance looking for hiking trail recommendations but except for the restrooms, it was closed due to COVID. I did get a great snapshot of a large bull moose; alas it was only a sculpture but inspired me to find the live version.
We headed north to Jackson Lake junction, stopping to walk across the dam and savor the park’s iconic view of the Teton range. Thin wisps of fog gently caressed the base of the snowcapped peaks. Grand Teton, at an elevation of 13,376 ft, is most prominent with its sharp pointed crown, flanked by its sister peaks of Teewinot (12,300 ft) and Mount Owen (12,913 ft). To the north, dominating the northern range is Mt. Moran, one of the most challenging mountains to summit despite its 12,608 ft elevation being two and half football fields lower than Grand Teton.
From atop the dam, we watched as the Snake River emerged from Jackson Lake beginning its 800 mile journey through Wyoming, Idaho (remember Evil Kineval’s infamous jump) and Oregon, eventually meeting up with the Columbia River in Washington. Jackson Dam was built in 1906 to increase the water level of the naturally formed Jackson Lake to ensure adequate irrigation for farming in southern Idaho. It was hard to believe peering down at its source, that this sleepy, placid river was the same tumultuous, fast flowing Snake that we’d rafted in Idaho several years before.
We drove north to Colter’s Bay, a short penninsula jutting into Jackson Lake for a closer view of the lake. Hiking the shoreline through the pristine snow looking for trail markers, we realized that no one had been here since the last snowfall. It was beautiful and peaceful but exhausting trudging through a foot of fresh snow so we decided to head south to a more heavily traficked area of the park to continue hiking. We’d had enough trailblazing for the day!
We easily found the trail head for Taggart Lake, a 3-mile loop trail noted for its spectacular views of the southern Teton range and the passby of two small natural mountain lakes, Bradley and Taggart. No sooner did we leave the parking area, crossing a flat of sagebrush, then a clear view of Grand Teton and its sister peaks, majestic and snowcovered opened up in front of us.
The trail was visible with some footprints from earlier hikers, but we had to be ever careful of where we put our feet and cautious of stumbling hazards hidden by the snow. Nonetheless, the day was bright, the snow on the trees beautiful and temperatures comfortable.
By the time we reached Taggart Lake, we’d shed a layer. Brushing snow off a fallen tree, we snacked and rehydrated, soaking up the warmth of the sun and reveling in the amazing view of the snow dusted mountains and evergreens reflected in still brown waters of the lake. It was becoming more and more apparent to us why Grand Teton National Park is cited as one of the most picturesque landscapes in America.
Too soon, it was time to stretch, pack up and head back to the car. With the mountains at our back, we initially made good timing despite the snowy trail. We encountered one minor obstacle, a fallen tree blocking our path. A quick assessment showed the easiest way around was actually under; so we scooted beneath the trunk on our backsides. With slightly damp bottoms, we reached the trailhead before sunset.
Not wanting to go into downtown Jackson Hole (this town of 10,000 people has a congested rush hour!), we stopped to eat at a restaurant near the highway to our lodging. Miazga’s is a family owned restaurant that serves a mix of Polish and Italian food. With all the calories we burned hiking through snow, we went Italian feasting on soup, salad and pasta. We headed back to Fireside vigilant for that ever elusive bull moose. It was a clear night with a full moon rising above the trees.
The temperatures dropped below freezing as soon as the sun set but despite the cold, we wanted to enjoy the beauty of this clear night. So we used the wood thoughtfully provided by our hosts and built a roaring blaze in the fire pit next to our cabin. Donning winter coats, gloves and hats we grabbed a beer (for my husband) and a wine (for me) and huddled around flames, recounting the day’s adventures and planning new ones for the morrow.
Oct 28, 2020