Crossing Lake Michigan on the National Historic Landmark Ship, the S.S. Badger has been on my 89 year old dad’s bucket list, so when my niece accepted an internship in Wisconsin for the summer, this was the perfect opportunity to visit her and fulfill my dad’s wish. So on a beautiful clear morning I drove my parents to Ludington, Michigan for the 9am ferry to Manitowic, Wisconsin.
Built in 1952 as a rail car ferry in Sturgeon Bay, the Badger was named after the mascot at the University of Wisconsin while its sister ship, the Spartan was named after Michigan State’s mascot. Although the ships’ hulls were reinforced for ice breaking, both vessels were designed to carry railroad cars for the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway across Lake Michigan.
With the demise of the railway business in the late 1980’s, the Badger and Spartan were purchased by a western Michigan entrepreneur who re-engineered the Badger as a car ferry. The Spartan remains at the Ludington port but is not in active service. Today the Badger is the last coal burning steam ship in use in the United States and carries vehicles and passengers four times per day across an 80 mile span of Lake Michigan from May through October. Four hundred and ten feet long and seven stories high, it can carry up to 600 passengers, 180 automobiles, tour buses, RVs, motorcycles, and semi trucks on board.
We were instructed to park in one of several lines of waiting vehicles and then boarded the ship. Given the hull size and configuration and how tightly vehicles are loaded, staff drive, or more precisely, back up most vehicles on board – the only exceptions being classic cars, motorcycles and semi trucks. We sat on the second deck overlooking the loading area and watched as vehicle after vehicle – cars, vans, trucks with trailers, campers, disappeared into the cavernous hold. We saw several Model As, motorcycles and even a Ferrari load. Finally, just as it looked like the under deck was at capacity, two semi trucks were masterfully backed on with just inches to spare.
Once loaded, the ship’s horn blasted and the Badger set sail. As we departed, a rear panel was lowered to close off the back of the ship and protect the vehicles from waves and spray. It was impressive to watch the finesse of the loading process, so of course, we gave the crew below a resounding round of applause for their masterful driving!
Sailing conditions were perfect – sunny and warm with no breeze. The surface of the great lake was unblemished and perfectly still; no seasickness today. Although old, the boat was outfitted with many comforts and amenities – a variety of indoor seating areas with tables and loungers, two cafeterias, a small museum, library, movie theater, game room, lots of outdoor seating and a front sundeck. There were even small staterooms available for rent for anyone who wanted privacy and a bed during the four hour journey. People were playing bingo in the main seating area and a guitarist entertained diners with folk hits from the 60s and 70s as they ate.
Once I settled my parents in a comfortable spot on board, I went exploring to stretch my legs. Circling the promenade deck via the outside walkway, I stopped on the sundeck in the bow to watch as our massive hull parted the calm lake surface. Every chair on the sundeck was occupied by sunbathers enjoying the gorgeous weather; that explained why despite being at capacity, the rest of the boat seemed sparsely populated. Rejoining my parents, we had a late breakfast in the third deck cafeteria and then enjoyed the sunshine and the beautiful waters of Lake Michigan all by ourselves off the stern of the boat.
In just over 4 hours, we arrived at Manitowic, Wisconsin, passing the lighthouse gracing the entrance to the harbor. The current Manitowoc Breakwater Light was built in 1918 of concrete and steel and a year later a fog signal and electric light were installed. Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, the light house continues to guide ships safely to the harbor. It’s easy to be lulled into believing on days like today with calm waters and ideal weather conditions that this great lake is gentle and forgiving to sailors but the hundreds of shipwrecks in this area over the past few centuries attest to Lake Michigan’s capacity for ferocity.
Once we docked, it took about 30 minutes for our car to be unloaded. By 1pm, we were heading north to our next adventure in Sturgeon Bay.