The small village of Sobsukha in Punakha district is an agricultural community surrounded by rice paddy fields but it is best known as the starting point for the hike to Chimi Lhankhang, the monastery of Lama Drukpa Kuenley, fondly remembered as the Divine Madman. Our visit to Chimi would help us discover the key to a puzzling mystery – why such a religious country like Bhutan was so enamored with the phallus. During our short time in country, we had observed phallic symbols painted on buildings, carved phalluses on display in temples and colorfully painted, wooden phalluses for sale in gift shops.
The hike to Chimi Lhakhang led us out of town and into the rice paddies.
Farmers were just starting to cultivate the soil and prepare seed for planting.
Our walking trail was actually the berm between paddies. As we left town, we acquired a mascot. The Bhutanese love dogs and there were dogs everywhere we went. Most dogs were not actually owned by individuals but were cared for by the larger community. These dogs appeared well fed -we frequently saw people feeding the dogs and our guide, Tandin always gave our leftovers to the dogs. The country has now started spaying and tagging dogs since the population is growing too quickly but there is still a lot of work to do – we saw puppies everywhere!
Prayer flags and prayer wheels were located in the fields to bring prosperity and good karma to farmers. People working in the fields frequently went to the prayer wheel for a walk, spin and prayer.
We reached Chimi temple in about 30 mins. From the outside, it looked like most other temples we had seen, in fact, smaller and less ornate.
But inside, the temple was packed with people, mostly women, mostly from outside Bhutan. A master monk and several of his young novitiates were chanting and performing a ritual.
A woman came forward, was handed a large wooden phallus which she cradled in her arms like a baby as she walked clockwise around the exterior of the temple three times. When she returned, a monk blessed her with saffron infused holy water and then handed her a pair of dice. She could roll up to three times; the numbers she rolled indicated her fortune. Tandin explained that this was a fertility ceremony and that many childless women visited the temple to increase their odds of getting pregnant. In fact, we saw several women with babes in arms visiting the temple to thank the gods for conceiving healthy children.
So how did Chimi Lhakhang become the most notable fertility temple in the country? It all started with an enlightened Buddhist master, Lama Drukpa Kuenley in the late 15th century. Devotees called him the Divine Madman because of his non-conventional and often outrageous style of teaching. He deliberately lived as a vagabond and wandered the countryside indulging in the excesses of feasting, alcohol and women. Because he was enlightened, people interpreted his actions as freeing them from the strict religious conventions of the time, allowing them to enjoy life. The Divine Madman’s most outrageous but sacred actions were to tame the demons that were tormenting the Bhutanese people. He was said to have pursued the demoness, Dochula after she turned herself into a dog and used his ‘Magic Thunderbolt’ to subdue her. He buried her on the mound where Chimi Lhakhang was built. People associated the Divine Madman’s ‘ Magic Thunderbolt’ with their survival and future health of their children; ultimately, the phallus became a powerful symbol for women seeking blessings to beget children.
Before we left the temple, we watched a young monk, tasked with watering the flowers, get milk from the temple offerings to feed some puppies. This was just another example of how the larger community cares for its dogs.
We walked quickly from the temple to the car to avoid the rain. It was a short 15 minute drive up a very steep hill to the Vara Hotel. Despite the overcast, the view from the hotel veranda was lovely. We checked in, had a dinner and drinks and turned in for the night. Tomorrow is a more significant hiking day!
