This afternoon we experienced everyday Bhutanese culture. First stop – the local market. The Centennial Farmer’s Market is located on the Wang Chu River and attracts vendors and farmers from all over the region to sell their produce in Thimphu.
The market was a cacophony of colors, sounds and smells. Vendors sat surrounded by mounds of fresh fruits and vegetables and the market was crowded with shoppers.
We saw the natural forms of the ingredients that flavor Bhutanese food – baskets of dried chilis and edible ferns, mounds of rice cakes, bottles of honey, bags of grains and the local made alcohol, ara.
From the market, we stopped to watch an archery match. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan; matches consist of teams of eleven men shooting arrows at targets spaced 145 meters away from each other. The match we watched in Thimphu was played with the traditional bow and arrows made of wood. Points are scored by the team whose arrows hit the target. Teams take turns shooting, competition is intense and each archer stays focused despite heckling from his opponents.
There are many rituals associated with the game. Teams dance around the target chanting songs when their arrows pierce the board. Opposing team members heckle the shooter and then cheer and prance around when his arrows miss their mark. Of course, the match area is surrounded by colorful prayer flags for luck. Spectators get quite close to the action, exhibiting confidence in the marksmanship of the archers, and also participating in the chanting and heckling. What a great opportunity for us to see Bhutanese sport, ritual and culture!
Our final evening in Thimphu we were invited to dine at the home of our local outfitter. Benjo is the owner of the company that managed the logistics for our trip. He has a beautiful home in Thimphu and his mother, sister, brother-in-law, nieces, nephews and friends were there to welcome us and share a meal. His mother was one of the first female entrepreneurs in Thimphu and owns an artisan shop that sells locally made handicrafts. She also has a collection of various styles of traditional Bhutanese clothing.
The gho is the national dress for men in Bhutan introduced in the 17th century to give its people a distinct identity. It is a knee length robe tied at the waist with a cotton belt known as a kera. Typically made of wool or cotton, it is lined and has long sleeves that fold back. It reaches the knees and is worn with knee high socks. Men are required to wear the gho if they work in a government office or school. On festive occasions, the gho is worn with a wool sash called the kabney. The color of the kabney as well as the presence or absence of fringe represents a man’s position in society.
The kira, the national dress for Bhutanese women is an ankle-length dress consisting of a rectangular piece of colorful woven fabric. It is wrapped and folded around the body, pinned at both shoulders typically with silver brooches and bound at the waist with a long belt. The kira is typically worn with a long sleeved blouse known as a wonju and a short jacket, called a toego. The jacket is made of a contrasting color, is lined and has long sleeves that fold back.
Assisted by our hosts, we donned ghos and kiras and experienced first hand the skill it takes to dress in national attire. We enjoyed the meal and even more so, the cross cultural fellowship. Our host family exemplified the Bhutanese hospitality we consistently experienced in the country – kind, welcoming and genuinely concerned for visitors’ well being!
